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For a more ornate 34 replica. I drilled a small hole into the centre of the body and epoxied the thin rod inside it. A red beacon light and cage were epoxied to the very top of the drive shaft. This adds time to the build. I applied Micro Set and let dry. For nonworking versions everything is permanently epoxied in place. The two vertical rails attach to the end of the generator cones. I airbrushed Future over them to get rid of the edges.
I had painted the body marble blue. The static version has resin pieces simulating the bulbs. Working version rails have wires coming out so they can be attached to the board inside the console.
For working versions. Above and below the body I painted MM Gold. Cages are constructed for the three lights with the wire provided. The two red. Final assembly was accomplished in no particular order. To make this a little more unique. If you have questions on how to build this kit or would like one built. Before attaching the rail. The outside of these are also painted Hunter Green.
With rails evenly attached to both cones and sides of the console. There are also five stripes — 1 thick. You can find the kit at: If the rails are properly It all depends what you are looking for to make it as close to the movie prop as possible.
Thank you for reading. The final part to attach was the ornate bar that connects underneath the console and to both vertical rails. If considering an economical alternative to that release.
Thinking about it. As a result. I built a test shot of it for a shop window and it became apparent that. I suppose it only seems logical that it should again see light of day.
Our test shot arrived in a sealed bag. Nearly twenty years down the line.. The only game in town then was the ageing 18" AMT Enterprise first released in the late s. Reissued parts top of frame. Nevertheless it was still. The reissued parts seem to be sharper Close-ups of the primary hull parts. Considering the care and attention that Polar Lights have lavished on this release. The release is.
I epoxied the tubing onto the back I decided that it was only fair that I build mine as the cutaway display model it is intended to be Construction began with the main part. Completed whole half section of model.
The pylon attachment points have also been altered. Upon opening the bag and examining the contents it immediately became apparent that Jamie Hood and his team had spent a lot of time reengineering and cleaning up the moulds.
The removable section of the secondary hull was then constructed Fit was above what I expected — a pleasant surprise — only took an hour to get to this point. At this stage brass rod and aluminium tubing were employed.
Point where nacelle meets pylon has been strengthened with brass rod epoxied in place. Pylons have been strengthened and location points amended. No other modifications were required. Secondary hull parts — again sharp detail with clean mouldings. Assembly was rapid and the fit very positive.
Remaining parts. In fact this was the cleanest copy of this kit that I have ever seen. Addressing the removable parts it was obvious that the engine and saucer section parts were going to be something of a headache and unlikely to inspire any practical solution.. Cutaway nacelle parts along with clear parts. Once fully cured the brass was bent and cut to achieve its final position.
Brass rod which fitted the aluminium tubing snugly was then epoxied into the new display stand. The removal of the original stunning Starfleet emblem stand actually makes this easier than it would be otherwise.. Looking good so far. Note the extra paint detail added to the bridge. Close-up of the saucer detail parts. All parts stripped ready for paint. Final test-fit of all the parts before they are all stripped off and everything is primed in Alclad Matt Black Micro Filler and Primer.
The main parts test-fitted on the stand. This done it was time for some filling and sanding which. I used up my last cans on this build. The first stage of the amendment to the display is to add these aluminium tubes embedded into epoxy.
Engineering and hanger deck. Neck and front. This is going to be pricey. With the basic painting done on the interior parts the model is readied for external detail and weathering.
My main colour of choice is Halfords Casablanca Daewoo White. Internal details were then picked out in The model was then assembled on its stand for final adjustments before being disassembled and primed in Alclad Matt Black Primer Filler in readiness for paint.
The saucer interior part with basic painting complete. Rack my brains as I did. I feel a ParaGrafix detail set on the way. I marked where I needed to drill location holes then epoxied them into the stand. I had a great time building this kit. The edges on the inside section of the Bussard collector were picked out in Liquitex Orange to suggest a bit of heat and make them stand out.
Very well done. Round 2. You made this old modeller a very happy man! The completed model — stunning! Detail shot of the middle section of the cutaway half. Close-up shot of the cutaway nacelle. Careful airbrushed shading and hand painting here will really pay dividends.
I only added some generic red coachlines with hand-painted yellow Starfleet insignia. My very grateful thanks to Jamie Hood for supplying the test shot for this review. As there were no decals available.
The characteristic yellow ring was also applied to the saucer and the deflector painted Copper. In conclusion. Round 2 have done a great job in cleaning up the moulds.. Without any other parts — the cutaway half of the model. The stand was given a solid coat of Halfords Matt Black. It was a blast — and on that basis alone I thoroughly recommend this release to all. Some careful airbrushing was also required to bring the warp nacelle detail to life using Liquitex Soft Body Acrylics as the colours are pure with no grey tones.
Side on shot of the non-cutaway side of the model. That tiny niggle aside. I enjoyed building this model much more than I thought I would. After all. I would very much like to download something Dad would have really wanted me to have and would remind me of him each time I used it. This having been said. Until now.. In-depth research I began by researching what are deemed to be the absolute best airbrushes on the market: Richpen and a Japanese 1 Since that time I have used virtually every type of airbrush known to man.
Until that point I had only ever airbrushed artwork. My father was always trying to download me a state of the art Iwata. Aztek all types. Rotring Conopois. I therefore decided it was time to completely overhaul my a i r b r u s h s e t u p w i t h something that would last me the remainder of my modelling lifetime. Fischer and Sprayguns. See p Of late I have been using cheap Iwata copies from China produced by Fengda and available from a variety of outlets under various brand names and these have served me well.
Iwata Revolution and Paasche F. Badger The business end of the HP-BH. The airbrush and spraygun holders come as standard along with 2 x 3m air hoses. The Neo TRN The Maxx Jet compressor — a compact box in which is a powerful compressor producing 1. Opening the box reveals all sorts of goodies.
Then again. I had used an Iwata airbrush before. Michael listened intently. The inside of the K-CS box.. All Kustom range airbrushes come in a brushed metal box. Close-up of the inline MAC valve. The brush. My beloved Talon now looks like an alsoran in comparison. Now located on the Lancing Business Park.
Some items will not be suitable for the everyday hobbyist. Although it looks cumbersome. I had a lot to mull over and over 4 months I crafted and re-crafted my ultimate set-up. I was introduced to Michael Voss in charge of technical support and repair. I left with a fairly clear idea of my ultimate set-up.
I turned up there on a hot summer day. Greeted by Lisa Munro. All airbrushes need a reliable power source and my compressors have served me well over the years. Doubly fortunate. The K-CS in operation. The Kustom KCS comes in a very sturdy end-opening box. After setting up an account with the lovely Ruth. Unfortunately one of the airbrushes After setting a delivery date all large orders are final checked by the aforementioned Michael for quality before despatch two large packages arrived at Cromer Shipyards just before Christmas My Set-up 9 44 The following set-up covers both modelling and artwork.
I was holidaying within striking distance of Lancing that year and therefore decided to drop in on them in July Feedback and reviews were hard to ignore. There is also storage aplenty. The K-TH with the comfort handle extension.
OHHHH lovely! The surprisingly awesome Kustom KTH. Kustom K-TH in action on a Starfleet subject. The quick release in action — just push to click in.
The K-TH straight from the box inline quickrelease not included. My current compressors. The main compressor is encased in a strong. CFM is the volume of air that the compressor can deliver to the airbrush during normal operation. Inside the brushed steel box. Additions bought for the K-TH.
My choice tested with Michael at TAC. What follows is a brief overview of each brush and its capabilities.
The Custom Micron range comes with crown caps as standard. The airbrush has a 0. It has also extended my brush sessions from 30 mins to 1 hr without the need for the compressor to cool — very handy indeed! If you have the funds for a long-term investment. This level of artistry does not come cheap!
Although a wrench is included. In addition to the above I also ordered quick-release male and female connections. I then plugged in the HP-BH and moved from minor to major league instantly! Fitted with a 0. The airbrushes As stated. Stylish red enamelled metal box for all Custom Microns. PTFE packing. I was warned that the nozzle should only ever be removed by a trained Iwata technician. I was looking to replace all my airbrushes with the exception of my Paasche airbrushes and Revell Omega compressor.
The transition point from air to paint is very positive. By squeezing the trigger you first release the air before squeezing harder to control paint flow. PTFE solvent proof packing ensures all paint types including automotive can be used. I was able to The CM-C out of the box. Very comfortable and balanced in operation. The second generation now are all fitted with this nifty crown cap dock on the end of the needle limiter.
Two inch to hairline with ease with the additional help of a crown cap — available separately — and inline MAC. The lack of overspray is astounding.
Rugged workhorses aimed at the professional. Although marketed as an automotive touch-up brush for small jobs. Kustom K-TH airbrush No other airbrush on the market compares to the K-TH — the only model designed from the start to produce a flat fan spray pattern. The above are my sci-fi and fantasy bread and butter.
Fitted with a I also brought an additional crown cap for closer work. The airbrush comes in a sturdy metal case with pistol grip moisture filter. A Kustom version of the Eclipse CS. The fluidity of control. This brush is. I bought two of these super machines and intend to use both for fine art and occasional modelling jobs.
They come in metal boxes with lube and moisture filter as standard. The G5 out of its box. MAC valve. Each brush has a machine matched head system and is individually tuned to produce the finest spray characteristics. The CM-B in action. Balance is perfect. The CM-B — the finest airbrush I have ever owned. I was also able to produce a tight pattern at 40psi and a fan pattern at 30psi!
All this does not come cheap. The CM-B hooked up. In operation the CM-C does not disappoint. An excellent one at that! Effective panelling on the Galor Class Cardassian warship courtesy of Iwata. The Eclipse G5 airbrush. The fan pattern is excellent and adjustable. PTFE seals. Five minutes in operation. The small size of the CM-B is quite a shock when compared to other airbrushes I have used.
This was its first outing and. It does. As well as the usual machined matched 0. Out of its box the CM-B is a thing of beauty. The K-TH is an astonishing piece of precision engineering. For the professional model maker all of the above are highly recommended but for the hobbyist I would recommend some of my selection of Iwata airbrushes for the following. The K-CS will cover most every day modelling situations especially with an inline MAC valve and crown cap and has to be a real contender for the modeller building medium size models on a regular basis.
The G5 is a joy to use and very easy to clean — but then it should be as the list price is. The seals are not PTFE but are available as an extra. Conclusions The airbrushes featured in this review are not free samples sent for evaluation but were bought with hard cash by this reviewer. Grateful thanks to Michael. Looking more like a small gravity spraygun than an airbrush. Ruth and especially Ken for their assistance and help in preparing this feature. With the price of some figure kits these days.
This is a spraygun. Eclipse G5 This for me is pure indulgence and will only really be used for scenic work. The Neo TRN-1 is ideal for the every day modeller building the odd model out of the box.
For the studio scalers out there. Fitted with a stainless steel 0. The lack of a MAC valve.
The largest-scale SKY 1 studio miniature around twenty-five inches long. I had originally intended to. With characteristic generosity. In order to review the kit in a self-contained chunk of feature. I would be needing a little help from my friends.. A modest number of components go to make up this model: In the photographs that accompany these ramblings.
Waterslide decals are also included. Modellers considering this subject should bear in mind that this is a garage kit. I have just begun work on my build. In chatting with Bob I am familiar. I include some shots supplied by Mamas of his own build.
Amazingly this sizeable release. Bob achieved this by sticking the blister onto a piece of plasticard. As a final indication of how gob-smackingly good this kit can look once completed. It should also be noted that the blister needs to sit against a raised area on the body that is not supplied and will therefore have to be constructed from refined his Sky 1 and Skydiver kits to the point where.
If you wish to replicate the look of one of the other.
Without this area to sit on the blister will not seat correctly against the hull of the craft. Of note. Beginning mine. Its dimensions when released from its supporting sheet spread out at the lower edges. As always. My verdict on the model? Although only in the early stages of construction with my build. Now that information is garnered from one or two websites that also 56 refer to the new issue as having alternative tinted windows and decals for a track version.
THE 1: Determining the colour was a matter of judgement as there was no clear guidance available that I could find. Despite this dedication. Those were not in evidence in the kit I received which. The images of the. I then painted all the relevant body parts using an automotive product from a rattle can. My enthusiasm was shared by a friend and it was at his house that most of my viewing took place.
Due to the profusion of family members similarly engaged. I was obliged to stand whilst being used as a climbing frame by his much younger siblings. An on-line piece referred to a standard Chevrolet blue being used originally so I tried to find a visual match. I understand. One of these was very slightly out of true and. My adhesive of choice for transparencies is Micro Kristal Klear but that proved to be insufficiently strong so the alternatives seemed to be either poly cement or superglue.
This was the roof and. I would have tried to coax it back into position by softening with warm water. Decals and photo-etched after-market set. This was removed using a combination of new scalpel blade.
Finished engine. As the tests had indicated. Engine block assembly. Whilst this assembly was set aside to dry I took another look at an area that my test fit had indicated might present a minor problem. Having trimmed and folded the first of the four hinges I realised how easy they were to 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Whilst I had the roof and windscreen to hand it seemed logical to fit the gull-wing doors using the new photo-etch hinges.
Underside of engine hatch with surface detail removed. Body shells. Various components from the box. Chromed parts. The potential problem with both of these is fogging so I tried several alternative brands using an old canopy from the spares box as a test bed.
The first assembly stage concerned the engine which was made up from twenty-six individual components and went together without any difficulty after the relevant parts were painted in metallic grey and semi-gloss and matt black. These were beautifully engineered but. Clear components. I approached them with some trepidation.
Bulletproof shield and additional weapon detail. Cockpit floor detail. I did not. To achieve this I brush-painted the recessed areas with semi-gloss clear acrylic and. Positioning the hinges meant that the doors needed to be taped in place but the final result was quite satisfying and further experimentation at this stage seemed to indicate that the door would function as intended using the after-market product.
I would stress the importance of following the order of build indicated in the instructions. Photo-etched panel to rear hatch. Door with photo-etched extras. Wheels and tyres were next and I understand. It had occurred to me that the chrome wheels might benefit from some weathering in the recesses. This was problem-free but. Under the roof is a laser-beam unit every home should have one and this needed some simple surgery.
Body with paint. Rain cover assembly and fitting. Rocket launcher panels. Plaque decal to engine compartment. The proof of the proverbial pudding would be presented once the hinges were glued to the doors and.
Roof frame with windshield. The doors also feature brass etch openings for the rocket launchers and there are two tiny chromed rockets that can dwell within although I decided not to bother with these. Front axle sub-frame and steering. The photo-etch set provides a replacement grille for this as well as a new underside to the deck lid and two rain cover boxes.
Rear suspension detail. Wheel assembly. Engine in position. Bulletproof shield in position. The cockpit benefits considerably from the photo-etch extras which represent foot pedals and instrument panels.
Before doing so. Floor pan fitted. The rear deck lid also needed to be positioned. An interesting detail on both the kit and the after-market etch set is the central gauge panel which is push-fitted into place as it has two detailed sides. Now this must be something I had got wrong. Photo-etched door hinges.
Photo-etch fittings for seatbelts were provided and the belts themselves were made from strips of Tamiya masking tape. These feature some really well rendered wood grain and there are two similarly textured decals that fit on top of the sills under the doors.
It would be difficult and. Seats with masking tape seatbelts added. Wood effect paint to dashboard details. Having established that the upper body was quite a snug fit during dry runs I thought it wise to fit it at this stage. Ultimate Refit", Roger Sides , pp. Foundation Imaging special: Voyager ", Robert Bonchune, pp. ISBN Volume 20, 17 January Modelling Memories and Movie Magic", pp. Volume 23, 10 October Starfleet Engineer", pp.
Volume 26, 9 July The long road to Polar Lights ' 1: Volume 44, 25 January A history of the Starship Enterprise , from its construction in to the restoration in - Part 1", Gary Kerr, pp. Volume 45, 10 April A history of the Starship Enterprise , from its construction in to the restoration in - Part 2", Gary Kerr, pp. Final, pre-order print-on-demand only issue; no retail dissemination.
July 9, ISBN I have only seen "Charlie and The Chocolate Factory", so I cant help you much there all classic "the meek shall.
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